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Repairing Plaster Cracks


New homes settle, and all homes expand and contract due to seasonal temperature changes. Although the structure of most houses is somewhat flexible, these movements can still take their toll on the home. Interior walls and ceilings can develop hairline or large cracks.
 With these basic repair methods, the job of repairing these cracks shouldn't seem so tough.


First -- Will You Need to Patch or Fill?
Hairline cracks are filled, larger cracks need to be patched.

Hairline Cracks
Choose a wall surface filler, you can choose from powder or paste.

Expand the crack to about 1/8", remove any loose plaster, extend the length of the crack about an inch on each end.

Fill the crack with filler, pushing in with your finger, repeat in an hour.

Sand as necessary and seal the repair with primer before painting to prevent the repair from showing through.

Large Cracks
Choose a patching plaster.

Cut out wide cracks so that the deepest part of the crack is wider than the shallow part.

Mix plaster according to the directions on the label. Generally, the larger the crack, the thicker the plaster should be.

Wet the crack before patching to bond the old plaster with the new.

Patch the crack with a wide putty knife.

Allow the patch to "cure". Let the repair set for 24 hours. Then re-wet the area and apply a second "smoothing" patch.

Wait another 24 hours before smoothing out the repair with a fine grit sandpaper to dry plaster.

Seal the repair with primer before painting.

Holes
Scrape the loose plaster from the edge of the hole. Then cut a piece of metal lath or screen larger than the hole and thread a piece of wire through the middle of the screen. Holding the ends of the wire, slide the screen into the hole. To hold the screen against the back of the hole, twist the wire to a pencil spanning the hole on the outside.

After wetting the screen and surrounding plaster, trowel a scratch coat of plaster into the hole; leaving the plaster rough. When this coat has set, undo the wire, remove the pencil, and either remove or push the wire into the wall cavity. The screen is held firmly in place by the hardened plaster. Trowel on the finish coat(s), sand as necessary, prime and paint.

 

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AboutRockfordHomes contains links to other real estate related internet sites. These links are selected on the basis of ease-of-use and helpful content for owning, buying, or selling a home, and no information, product, or service has been endorsed or approved by us. Rockford home source information is provided as a service to help you better understand issues related to the process of buying or selling real estate, especially in the Rockford Illinois area. The accuracy of content is not guaranteed, nor is it intended to replace the advice of an attorney, financial advisor, lender, home inspection service, building contractor or other real estate professional. Privacy Statement: We are dedicated to protecting your privacy and handling your information in a secure and confidential manner. We know that having trust and confidence in the people you work with is important to you and we value the trust you place in us to protect your information. We do not permit list brokers, mail-order businesses, telemarketers, or other marketing companies to contact you to promote their products or services, and we do not sell, lend, or give out your information for this purpose. We use your information only to help us provide the real estate services you request. Bill Marek is a residential real estate agent with Dickerson & Nieman Realtors in the Rockford area of Northern Illinois, and, as a REALTOR©, is a member of the National Association of Realtors©, Illinois Association of Realtors©, and Rockford Area Association of Realtors©.

 +  Working with Lath  and Plaster

Plaster is one of the earliest forms of wall surface finishes.
Application isn't a skill for the layman because plaster sets quickly and the flat surfaces are achieved largely "by eye" and by experience. Repairs to plaster aren't difficult, though.

The old method of lath and plaster was a sequential operation.
(1) lath is nailed to studs or joists; (2) a "scratch coat" of plaster is troweled onto the lath with the wet plaster oozing through gaps in the lath forming a "key" when it hardens; (3) a second, "brown coat" of plaster is troweled onto the rough surface of the now-dry scratch coat; and (4) a "finish" or "white coat" is applied and becomes the final, smooth surface.

Lath can be a clue to a house's age.
The earliest wood lath was split from one board to produce a zig-zag effect when stretched and nailed. Later wood lath is sawn. Metal lath is similar to wood lath, in that it allows the scratch coat to ooze through and form keys. Rock lath, a sheet material, has no such holes in it; plaster bonds with fibers in the rock lath surface. Plaster can also be applied to plasterboard; a single coat over the board finishes the job.

Most scratch coats and brown coats were durable because installers mixed animal hair with the plaster. Old plaster being demolished can be vile to breathe, use precautions if you are renovating an old home. Scratch coats and brown coats were left rough and were often scratched with a plasterer's comb before they set completely, so the next coat would have something to adhere to. Finish coats were always quite thin, to guard against cracking.

 

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Bill Marek
Dickerson & Nieman, Realtors
6277 E. Riverside Blvd.
Rockford, IL 61114

 

 

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Bill Marek, Realtor, Rockford, IL
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